A nineteenth century riviere, featuring oval panels of light grey montrose agate, set in silver with integrated box clasp, length 15 in, circa 1860. 

Jewelry featuring agates became immensely popular during the mid-nineteenth century. Often referred to as 'Scottish agate' or 'Scottish pebble' jewelry, much agate jewelry was actually produced in England, relying on a steady supply of stones from Germany, India, and Africa, rather than Scotland. Queen Victoria further popularized agate jewelry with her adoration of all things Scottish. During the Great Exhibition Ball of 1851, she even mandated that all those who attended dress in Scottish costume. From a mineral perspective, agate is composed of silicon dioxide and is thus a variety of quartz. Agates are often named and classified based on their physical characteristics and include banded agate (dark brown/black with white banding), montrose agate (gray or light brown with light striations), moss agate (light colored and translucent with dendritic inclusions), and jasper (brown to red with lighter striations). Chalcedony, carnelian, bloodstone, and malachite are also a part of this mineral family and are often incorporated in agate jewelry of the nineteenth century.