A late nineteenth century tiara, with French jet mounted on base metal coated in black lacquer, designed as a series of floral clusters rising from the base of the tiara with deep black glass accents, 2 in high, 43 grams, circa 1880. See item M.133-1984 in the V&A Museum collection for similar example. Condition Note: Likely originally had another floral cluster rising on the right side of the tiara, now deficient.

Victorian jewelry in the latter half of the nineteenth century saw an explosion of sentimental and mourning jewelry, catalyzed by the death of Prince Albert in December 1861, after which Queen Victoria dressed in mourning for the remainder of her life.  Custom dictated acceptable forms of dress and adornment, and Queen Victoria continued to set the precedent in fashion even during this dark period of her life. Black jewelry in myriad designs was the height of fashion and was crafted from a variety of materials, notably jet. Jet, the lowest rank of coal known as lignite, became a popular material for carving heavy designs, particularly in England where the material was mined in Whitby, thus becoming known as Whitby jet. French jet, in contrast, is not lignite but rather faceted black glass, sometimes exhibiting a very deep red tone, and was used to create lighter, more intricate mourning jewelry designs, often featuring a starburst motif.