A rare late nineteenth century french jet mourning riviere, set with mirrored black glass in a whimsical motif with alternating bow and floral components, length 18 in, central bow 1.5 in long by 1.25 in wide, integrated push clasp, marked 'Packer' to the reverse of the central bow, circa 1870. 

 

Charles Packer (1826-1932) Goldsmith & Jeweller, 78 Regent Street, jeweller, pearl bead, and coral dealer, produced mourning accessories in the latter half of the nineteenth century. See Item No. 1994,0706.1-5 in the British Museum for a fine, boxed parure mourning suite marked 'Packer.'

Victorian jewelry in the latter half of the nineteenth century saw an explosion of sentimental and mourning jewelry, catalyzed by the death of Prince Albert in December 1861, after which Queen Victoria dressed in mourning for the remainder of her life.  Custom dictated acceptable forms of dress and adornment, and Queen Victoria continued to set the precedent in fashion even during this dark period of her life. Black jewelry in myriad designs was the height of fashion and was crafted from a variety of materials, notably jet. Jet, the lowest rank of coal known as lignite, became a popular material for carving heavy designs, particularly in England where the material was mined in Whitby, thus becoming known as Whitby jet. French jet, in contrast, is not lignite but rather faceted black glass, sometimes exhibiting a very deep red tone, and was used to create lighter, more intricate mourning jewelry designs, often featuring a starburst motif.