A late nineteenth century hairpin, designed as a butterfly in black lacquered metal and accented with dark mirrored black glass - known as french jet - and set on an articulating hairpin, reverse marked 'Packer,' a famous producer of french jet items during the late Victorian period, butterfly 2 in by 1.5 in, hairpin 3.5 in, circa 1880.

Victorian jewelry in the latter half of the nineteenth century saw an explosion of sentimental and mourning jewelry, catalyzed by the death of Prince Albert in December 1861, after which Queen Victoria dressed in mourning for the remainder of her life.  Custom dictated acceptable forms of dress and adornment, and Queen Victoria continued to set the precedent in fashion even during this dark period of her life. Black jewelry in myriad designs was the height of fashion and was crafted from a variety of materials, notably jet. Jet, the lowest rank of coal known as lignite, became a popular material for carving heavy designs, particularly in England where the material was mined in Whitby, thus becoming known as Whitby jet. French jet, in contrast, is not lignite but rather faceted black glass, sometimes exhibiting a very deep red tone, and was used to create lighter, more intricate mourning jewelry designs, often featuring a starburst motif.