An antique aquamarine, citrine, and diamond necklace, set in silver and gold, comprising a row of oval cut aquamarines and citrines punctuated by rose cut diamonds, and centering a step-cut citrine, suspending a graduated fringe of citrine and aquamarine set drops, late nineteenth century, unmarked, length 40.5 cm, 57.5 gm.

The late Victorian period, from 1880-1900, was a time of great change in society at large, as well as in the aesthetics of jewelry. Elaborate ostentation in both dress and adornment gave way to refined simplicity. With the discovery of the Comstock Lode in 1859, silver became widely available for use in jewelry. Styles favored light colored jewelry set in silver, and some progressive women did away with daytime jewelry altogether. Necklaces featured fringes and festoons, and wide chokers worn high on the neck also became popular. The advent of electric lighting late in the century further solidified the use of diamonds in jewelry, often set 'a jour,' or open-backed, to take advantage of the enhanced lighting available in the evening.