Tell me, is the rose naked or is that her only dress?
Pablo Neruda
victorian amethyst and pearl brooch
A mid-nineteenth century brooch, set with an oval shaped amethyst in gold, surrounded by an alternating halo of small and large seed pearls, c clasp to the reverse, with attached safety chain, 1.1 in by 0.8 in, 6 grams, circa 1860.
The late Victorian period, from 1880-1900, was a time of great change in society at large, as well as in the aesthetics of jewelry. Elaborate ostentation in both dress and adornment gave way to refined simplicity. With the discovery of the Comstock Lode in 1859, silver became widely available for use in jewelry. Styles favored light colored jewelry set in silver, and some progressive women did away with daytime jewelry altogether. Necklaces featured fringes and festoons, and wide chokers worn high on the neck also became popular. The advent of electric lighting late in the century further solidified the use of diamonds in jewelry, often set 'a jour,' or open-backed, to take advantage of the enhanced lighting available in the evening.