An early nineteenth century necklace, featuring domed half pearls each with a riveted cut steel halo and tiny floral drop , alternating floral clusters, with push barrel clasp, 15.5 in, 28 grams, circa 1840.

Cut steel jewelry originated in eighteenth century England, but enjoyed popularity throughout the late nineteenth century. Cut steel jewelry held similar symbolism as Berlin Iron during the Napoleonic Wars, when the nobility donated gold and precious stones to the war effort in exchange for jewelry crafted from non-precious metals. Demand was further catalyzed when Napoleon gifted his second wife, Marie Louise, a parure of cut steel jewelry on the occasion of their marriage. Structurally, these jewels are formed from faceted and polished studs which are riveted into a back plate with pre-drilled holes. The finest examples of cut steel jewelry feature three-dimensional designs with a variety of stud sizes and shapes, but all pieces were highly polished to provide high reflectivity not unlike the sparkle of diamonds under candlelight. Unfortunately for the collector, much cut-steel jewelry has not survived until today due to being stored in poor conditions leading to rust.