An early nineteenth century gilt metal chain, with chunky, belcher links featuring smooth links and textured links with small, raised dots, complete with barrel clasp, length 40 in, width 7 mm, 61 grams, circa 1810. 

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, chains were an integral part of attire for both genders, whether worn simply as necklaces or for the purpose of suspending watches, lorgnettes, lockets, or muffs. Long chains would be looped around the neck and then tucked into the belt or doubled over and pinned to the bust to suspend special objects. Such chains were made from a variety of materials including gold, silver, gilt metal, iron, or pinchbeck, the latter being a proprietary blend of copper and zinc, essentially brass, invented in 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck (1670-1732). Today such chains are highly regarded by collectors for their exuberant variety of forms and cleverly designed clasps often featuring a single hand or a pair of hands. Many gilded chains are misidentified or attributed inappropriately as pinchbeck, and care should be taken to distinguish between the two materials.