The meaning of earthly existence lies not, as we have grown used to thinking, in prospering but in the development of the soul.
Alexander Solzhenitsyn
cut steel star motif riviere
A mid-nineteenth century cut steel necklace, featuring a continuous star motif, comprised of seventeen stars formed of steel nails, riveted to a back plate, with steel embellishments on each link between stars, including matching pendant drop, length 17 in with 0.5 in drop, circa 1850.
Cut steel jewelry originated in eighteenth century England, but enjoyed popularity throughout the late nineteenth century. Cut steel jewelry held similar symbolism as Berlin Iron during the Napoleonic Wars, when the nobility donated gold and precious stones to the war effort in exchange for jewelry crafted from non-precious metals. Demand was further catalyzed when Napoleon gifted his second wife, Marie Louise, a parure of cut steel jewelry on the occasion of their marriage. Structurally, these jewels are formed from faceted and polished studs which are riveted into a back plate with pre-drilled holes. The finest examples of cut steel jewelry feature three-dimensional designs with a variety of stud sizes and shapes, but all pieces were highly polished to provide high reflectivity not unlike the sparkle of diamonds under candlelight. Unfortunately for the collector, much cut-steel jewelry has not survived until today due to being stored in poor conditions leading to rust.